{"id":6279,"date":"2022-12-25T16:27:14","date_gmt":"2022-12-25T13:27:14","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/revistafamilia.ro\/?p=6279"},"modified":"2022-12-25T16:27:20","modified_gmt":"2022-12-25T13:27:20","slug":"cafeneaua-personajelor","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/revistafamilia.ro\/?p=6279","title":{"rendered":"Cafe(ne)aua personajelor"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Van Gogh, Terasa cafenelei noaptea<\/em> (1888)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

\u00cen recenta mea excursie \u00een Antalya, am constatat c\u00e2t de atr\u0103g\u0103toare este cafeaua turceasc\u0103 (Turkish coffee)<\/em> pentru to\u021bi turi\u0219tii veni\u021bi de aiurea, curio\u0219i \u0219i mereu gata s\u0103 savureze o cafea concentrat\u0103, nefiltrat\u0103, fiart\u0103 de dou\u0103 ori, servit\u0103 \u00een ce\u0219cu\u021be mici, menite s\u0103-i asigure aroma \u0219i t\u0103ria. La sugestia colegei mele de c\u0103l\u0103torie, Mariana O., am decis s\u0103 experiment\u0103m aceast\u0103 b\u0103utur\u0103 consistent\u0103, preparat\u0103 din boabe m\u0103cinate foarte fin, b\u0103utura cu gust am\u0103rui, cu caimac gros, pe care localnicii o servesc de regul\u0103 dup\u0103 mese ca o completare a meniului matinal sau de amiaz\u0103, iar vizitatorii, ori de c\u00e2te ori au o pauz\u0103 \u00eentre dou\u0103 obiective din agenda itinerariului. \u00cen multe familii rom\u00e2ne\u0219ti, cafeaua la ibric (adic\u0103, la cezve<\/em>) nu este o modalitate inedit\u0103 de preparare pentru c\u0103, al\u0103turi de cafeaua op\u0103rit\u0103 sau la percolator, ea reprezint\u0103 o op\u021biune personal\u0103 \u00een larga gam\u0103 a ceea ce Harari nume\u0219te consum romantic<\/em>, adic\u0103 o modalitate de a ne face ferici\u021bi prin \u00eencercarea \u0219i testarea c\u00e2t mai multor produse (\u0219i servicii), dup\u0103 cum ne cere inima (vezi Harari, 2011: 129). La fel ca \u00een via\u021ba real\u0103, personajele din romane se las\u0103 seduse de feluri culinare pl\u0103cute la gust (cum ar fi cafeaua!), confirm\u00e2nd constatarea c\u0103 \u201em\u00e2ncarea [m\u00e2ncatul] este o mare delectare a vie\u021bii\u201d (Wansink, 2006:10), iar activit\u0103\u021bile \u0219i practicile culinare sunt instrumente certe de a \u201e\u00een\u021belege cum comunic\u0103, interac\u021bioneaz\u0103 \u0219i se comport\u0103 oamenii\u201d (Ferrero, 2001: 214), \u00een cazul nostru, personajele.\u00a0 Privite dintr-o perspectiv\u0103 mai general\u0103, activit\u0103\u021bile noastre cotidiene centrate \u00een jurul sensibiliz\u0103rii sim\u021burilor noastre \u2013 gust, miros, auz \u2013\u00a0 prin utilizarea unei game largi de produse desemnate s\u0103 le incite, se \u00eendreapt\u0103, aproape invariabil, c\u0103tre un scop comun: descoperirea pl\u0103cerii \u0219i a valorilor sale care, la fel ca \u00een cazul crea\u021biilor artistice, se reg\u0103se\u0219te \u00een puterea acestor produse de a \u201etransgresa sau de a se \u00eendep\u0103rta de la forma lor comun acceptat\u0103\u201d (Kermode, 2004: 4), pentru a provoca acea senza\u021bie superioar\u0103, c\u0103utat\u0103, a\u0219teptat\u0103, care d\u0103 sens \u00eentreprinderilor noastre \u0219i felului \u00een care ne pozi\u021bion\u0103m \u00een diferitele situa\u021bii zilnice, aparent nesemnificative prin repetitivitatea lor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Experien\u021be transformative<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00cen viziunea multora, cafeaua apar\u021bine categoriei de produse de confort (comfort food<\/em>), de consolare, de r\u0103sf\u0103\u021b, am putea zice, un produs care hr\u0103ne\u0219te deopotriv\u0103 trupul \u0219i sufletul c\u00e2nd suntem  \u201edeprima\u021bi, plictisi\u021bi, singuri sau, dimpotriv\u0103, ferici\u021bi, c\u00e2nd vrem s\u0103 ne cinstim sau s\u0103 ne recompens\u0103m pentru ceva anume\u201d (Wansink, 2006: 140), a\u0219a cum se \u00eent\u00e2mpl\u0103 cu Contele Aleksandr Ilici Rostov, aflat pe acoperi\u0219ul hotelului Metropol din Moscova unde \u0218ukov, un om bun la toate, \u00eel invit\u0103 la o cafea (la ibric!), oferindu-i astfel o experien\u021b\u0103 care i se va tatua \u00een memorie: \u201eC\u00e2nd omul a turnat cafeaua, Contele s-a \u00eentrebat dac\u0103 o fi \u00eenceputul sau sf\u00e2r\u0219itul zilei pentru el. Orice ar fi, s-a g\u00e2ndit, o cea\u0219c\u0103 de cafea e bine-venit\u0103. Servit\u0103 acas\u0103, \u00een serviciul de Limoges, cafeaua le poate da energie harnicilor care se trezesc \u00een zori, poate lini\u0219ti firile g\u00e2nditoare la amiaz\u0103 \u0219i-i poate \u00eemb\u0103rb\u0103ta pe atacatori la miezul nop\u021bii (…). B\u0103tr\u00e2nul s-a aplecat spre el: Secretul e cum o macini, a ar\u0103tat el spre un aparat de lemn, cu manivel\u0103 de fier. Nicio secund\u0103 \u00eenainte s\u0103 se fac\u0103\u201d (Towles, 2018: 158).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cafeaua, ca orice alt produs de r\u0103sf\u0103\u021b, ajut\u0103 individul s\u0103 vad\u0103 lumea \u00een mod mai optimist, mai cu seam\u0103 prin faptul c\u0103 acesta simte cum ea se aliniaz\u0103 conexiunilor deja existente \u00een subcon\u0219tientul s\u0103u (vezi Wansink, 2006: 160), ating\u00e2ndu-i sim\u021burile specifice savur\u0103rii ei \u0219i trezindu-i amintirile \u0219i nostalgiile referitoare la originea, marca sau metoda ei de preparare, a\u0219a cum i se \u00eent\u00e2mpl\u0103 personajului Blake, ajuns \u00een barul \u201eacela din col\u021b, de pe rue de Seine\u201d, unde \u201ese poate bea cea mai bun\u0103 cafea din Saint-Germain. O cafea bun\u0103 (…), cu adev\u0103rat bun\u0103, este un miracol n\u0103scut din colaborarea intim\u0103 dintre ni\u0219te boabe excelente, aici o cafea Nicaragua proasp\u0103t pr\u0103jit\u0103, m\u0103cinat\u0103 fin, ap\u0103 purificat\u0103 \u0219i un expressor, \u00een cazul de fa\u021b\u0103 un Cimbali, cur\u0103\u021bat \u00een fiecare zi\u201d (Le Tellier, 2021: 20).\u00a0<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Studiile \u00een psihologia consumului men\u021bioneaz\u0103 modul \u00een care mediul ambiant poate influen\u021ba, chiar modela, comportamentul individului, influen\u021b\u00e2ndu-l at\u00e2t prin locul specific de desf\u0103\u0219urare a inger\u0103rii alimentelor (buc\u0103t\u0103rie, sufragerie, restaurant), c\u00e2t \u0219i prin elemente aparent secundare, cum ar fi con\u021binutul meniului, sistemul de iluminare al spa\u021biului respectiv, muzica ce acompaniaz\u0103 evenimentul \u0219i compania \u00een care se desf\u0103\u0219oar\u0103 acesta (vezi Wansik, 2006: 6), a\u0219a cum descoperim \u00een pasajul \u00een care protagonistul Florinei Ilis, Matei, descrie invita\u021bia sa la cafea, adresat\u0103 de Anamaria, directoarea Muzeului de art\u0103:  ea \u201eface cafeaua, asta n-ar fi trebuit s-o v\u0103d, cum pune apa \u00een recipientul de plastic, deschide un sertar de la biroul unde m\u0103 aflu eu \u0219i scoate cutia de cafea, \u00eencetineala cu care face fiecare mi\u0219care,  ca \u0219i cum n-ar mai fi existat nimic altceva pe lume \u00een afara acestui moment \u00een care ea preg\u0103te\u0219te cafeaua pentru mine (…), pune \u00een priz\u0103 aparatul de cafea \u0219i apas\u0103 butonul (…); m\u0103 fascineaz\u0103 fiecare mi\u0219care fireasc\u0103 pe care o face, pune pe masa de birou ce\u0219tile \u0219i apa fierbinte \u00eencepe s\u0103 se reverse cu zgomot peste, ea st\u0103 rezemat\u0103 de m\u0103su\u021ba mic\u0103 pe care se afl\u0103 aparatul de cafea \u0219i o ma\u0219in\u0103 veche de scris!\u201d (Ilis, 2002: 18).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cafele \u0219i culturi<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Felul \u00een care se consum\u0103\/prepar\u0103 un produs, \u00een cazul nostru, cafeaua, este, \u00een opinia antropologilor, un marker identitar cert, c\u0103ci orice obicei sau discurs culinar exhib\u0103 o g\u00e2ndire \u0219i o manifestare a unei genera\u021bii culturale (vezi Atkins et al., 2001: 8), indic\u00e2nd at\u00e2t specificul unui individ c\u00e2t \u0219i pe cel al unei \u201egrup\u0103ri religioase sau etnice, clase, v\u00e2rste\u201d (273). C\u00e2nd cititorii se al\u0103tur\u0103 personajelor lor la o cea\u0219c\u0103 de cafea, ei descoper\u0103  cuno\u0219tin\u021bele \u0219i practicile folosite de acestea \u00een elaborarea cunoscutei b\u0103uturi ritualice, cum se \u00eent\u00e2mpl\u0103, bun\u0103oar\u0103, \u00een compania grupului Geoges Savage, Rick \u0219i Jimmy, \u00een pauza lor de lucru l\u00e2ng\u0103 stupi: Rick face o mic\u0103 introducere privind istoricul acesteia, anume, c\u0103 \u201ecea mai veche atestare documentar\u0103 a cafelei este \u00eentr-o poveste din Etiopia de acum o mie cinci sute de ani (…). Ciobanul Kaldi a observat cum caprele lui nu mai aveau somn dup\u0103 ce m\u00e2ncau un soi de fructe ro\u0219ii. A povestit lucrul \u0103sta unui c\u0103lug\u0103r (…). C\u0103lug\u0103rul a p\u0103rut interesat (…), a\u0219a c\u0103 \u0219i-a turnat apa fierbinte peste fructe \u0219i a b\u0103ut-o. \u0218i gata! A\u0219a a ap\u0103rut cafeaua\u201d (Lunde, 2019: 92); dup\u0103 care beau cafeaua \u00een felul lor,  \u201edintr-un termos, turnat\u0103 \u00een ni\u0219te ce\u0219ti mici, verzi, genul v\u00e2n\u0103toresc \u0219i pliabile, devenind plate (…). Cafea proasp\u0103t m\u0103cinat\u0103 (…), Columbia. Neagr\u0103 \u0219i pr\u0103jit\u0103 intens (…). Pentru Jimmy preg\u0103tirea cafelei reprezenta aproape o form\u0103 de art\u0103. Cump\u0103ra boabe de cafea de pe internet. Boabele trebuiau s\u0103 fie proaspete (…), iar cafeaua trebuia preparat\u0103 la o temperatur\u0103 corect\u0103 a apei, care era, de fapt, \u201aalfa \u0219i omega\u2019 (…). Ai nevoie doar de o r\u00e2\u0219ni\u021b\u0103 \u0219i de boabe de cafea ca lumea\u201d (91).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Autorii folosesc intervalul de servit cafea pentru a le oferi personajelor\/cititorilor lor acel r\u0103gaz revitalizant, necesar pentru a se desprinde de o rutin\u0103 epuizant\u0103, pentru a se opri dintr-o \u00eendeletnicire mental\u0103 sau fizic\u0103 impus\u0103, \u00een favoarea unui moment de interac\u021biune discre\u021bionar\u0103 (vezi Page et al., 2010: 2), eliberatoare, o scurt\u0103 pl\u0103cere a unei conexiuni sociale, a\u0219a cum o tr\u0103ie\u0219te Stere, al\u0103tur\u00e2ndu-i-se mamei lui la o can\u0103 de cafea \u00een timpul vizitei sale s\u0103pt\u0103m\u00e2nale obi\u0219nuite, o cafea preparat\u0103 dup\u0103 tipicul genera\u021biei sale, a\u0219a cum \u00eei explic\u0103 ea, din cafea \u201er\u00e2\u0219nit\u0103 proasp\u0103t (…). Cafeaua fierbe repede. O las s\u0103 dea \u00een clocot de dou\u0103 ori \u0219i o torn din ibricul str\u0103vechi de alam\u0103 \u00eentr-una dintre cele trei ce\u0219ti Rosenthal r\u0103mase \u00eentregi (…).  Dac\u0103 a\u0219 bea cafeaua aici \u00eentr-o cea\u0219c\u0103 ordinar\u0103, ar domni o sup\u0103rare de moarte\u201d (Zamfir, 2004: 144). Identitatea cultural\u0103 a personajelor este configurat\u0103, \u00een mod firesc, \u0219i prin practici cotidiene, cum ar fi b\u0103utul cafelei, care, \u00een mod curent, sunt determinate de un stil de via\u021b\u0103 personalizat la nivel individual sau de grup, con\u0219tient \u0219i voit ales, un stil relativ u\u0219or detectat de acela\u0219i Stere la tat\u0103l s\u0103u c\u00e2ndva, \u00een tinere\u021bea acestuia, ca fiind mult  diferit de experien\u021ba sa prezent\u0103: \u201eTata se r\u0103core\u0219te cu cea\u0219ca de cafea \u00een fa\u021b\u0103, b\u0103ut\u0103 greu \u0219i \u00een singur\u0103tate (…). T\u00e2n\u0103rul provincial, devenit pe nea\u0219teptate bucure\u0219tean, se uit\u0103 cu mil\u0103 \u0219i \u00eengrijorare la buzoieni, se simte cet\u0103\u021bean al universului. Cafeaua tare \u00eei ascute g\u00e2ndurile \u0219i \u00eei face mai acut\u0103 triste\u021bea. Cafeaua din fa\u021ba mea e mai degrab\u0103 amar\u0103. Nu mai are aroma celei din 1933, chiar dac\u0103 nu \u0219tiu exact cum era vechea arom\u0103. A\u0219ezat la mas\u0103, tat\u0103l meu avea doar presim\u021biri: eu \u0219tiu care a fost sf\u00e2r\u0219itul pove\u0219tii\u201d (255).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Consumul de cafea, acas\u0103 sau \u00eentr-un alt loc anume, continu\u0103 s\u0103 reprezinte un aspect de via\u021b\u0103 care ne define\u0219te \u0219i ne influen\u021beaz\u0103 existen\u021ba \u0219i personalitatea, adesea v\u0103zute ca fiind construite \u201edin elemente create de al\u021bii\u201d (Tomlinson, 1990: 13), din produse \u0219i spa\u021bii de consum al lor, \u00eenscrise \u00een ritmul \u0219i ritualul cotidian al fiec\u0103rui individ\/personaj, un spa\u021biu desf\u0103\u0219urat \u00eentre obliga\u021biile \u0219i pl\u0103cerile care profileaz\u0103 imaginea social public\u0103 a acestuia, recunoscut\u0103 prin totalitatea reprezent\u0103rilor acumulate \u0219i \u00eemp\u0103rt\u0103\u0219ite \u00een \u00eemprejur\u0103ri cotidiene fire\u0219ti.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Referin\u021be<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Atkins, Peter, Bowler, Ian, 2001, Food in Society. Economy, Culture, Geography,<\/em> Londra: Arnold<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ferrero, Sylvia, 2001, \u201eComida sin par: consumption of Mexican food in Los Angeles\u201d, \u00een Belasco, Warren, Scranton, Philip, editori,  Food Netions. Selling Taste in Consumer Societies, <\/em>Londra: Routledge (pp.194-219)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Harari, Yuval, Noah, 2011, Sapiens.  A Brief History of Humankind<\/em>, Londra: Vintage<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ilis, Florina, 2002, Chemarea lui Matei, <\/em>Cluj: Editura Echinox<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Kermode, Frank, 2004, Pleasure and Change. The Aesthetic of Canon, <\/em>New York: Oxford University Press<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Le Tellier, Herve, 2021 (2020),  Anomalia, <\/em>Bucure\u0219ti: Pandora Publishing (trad. M\u0103d\u0103lina Ghiu)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Lunde, Maja, 2019 (2015), Istoria albinelor, <\/em>Bucure\u0219ti: Humanitas Fiction (trad. Sanda Tomescu Baciu)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Page, Stephen, J., Connell, Joanne, 2010, Leisure: An Introduction, <\/em>Edinburgh: Pearson Education Limited<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tomlinson, Alan,\u00a0 1990, Consumption, Identity, and Style. Marketing, meanings, and the packing of pleasure, <\/em>Londra: Routledge<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Towles, Amor, 2018 (2016), Un gentleman la Moscova, <\/em>Bucure\u0219ti: Nemira Publishing House (trad. Dana Ionescu)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Wansink, Brian, 2006, Mindless Eating. Why We Eat More Than We Think<\/em>, New York: Bantam<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Zamfir, Mihai, 2004, Poveste de iarn\u0103. Acas\u0103,<\/em> Ia\u0219i: Polirom<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Un articol de Magda Danciu<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":8,"featured_media":6281,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[52,58],"tags":[1430,1429,85,1428,86],"coauthors":[1239],"class_list":["post-6279","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-rubrici","category-save-as","tag-cafea","tag-cafenea","tag-magda-danciu","tag-nr-10-2022","tag-save-as"],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/revistafamilia.ro\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/12\/vangogh.jpg","jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/revistafamilia.ro\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6279","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/revistafamilia.ro\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/revistafamilia.ro\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/revistafamilia.ro\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/8"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/revistafamilia.ro\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=6279"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/revistafamilia.ro\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6279\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":6282,"href":"https:\/\/revistafamilia.ro\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6279\/revisions\/6282"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/revistafamilia.ro\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/6281"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/revistafamilia.ro\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=6279"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/revistafamilia.ro\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=6279"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/revistafamilia.ro\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=6279"},{"taxonomy":"author","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/revistafamilia.ro\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcoauthors&post=6279"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}